The Darius Brubeck Quartet in Sicily / by Elaine Crouch

We did this the civilised way and caught an afternoon flight on Friday, arriving at Palermo airport on a beautiful sunset and in perfect time for dinner. Our host, Francesco, took us to a local restaurant where we did the set menu; ante pasta, pasta, main (all seafood) washed down with a carafe or two of the house wine. Afterwards we checked out a couple of the local bars that were busy and friendly, notable for the complete absence of lairy drunkenness.

The next day we had a good walk about. I went for a run around the harbour and to the Foro Italico. We had a 4pm set up and soundcheck at Sicily's oldest theatre - Real Teatro Santa Cecilia, built in 1693.

We had a beautiful dinner beforehand, Sicilian red wine, espresso and grappa. Perfect to energise us for our two well attended shows. The early set was the older folks and the later one well attended by the younger generation. The sound was good and we played two totally different sets with the exception of the compulsory Take Five that has everyone lurching for phones and iPads to video it. They always stop just after the head (the moment I start soloing!) - I’ve got used to it now but I used to find it most disconcerting....

The hotel was well appointed in the old town. The area was busy and noisy, and the air feels quite thick with pollution. By Sunday morning I had a better idea of the local geography and managed to find a running route to the Foro Italico via cobbled back alleys, whilst listening to radio commentary of England v New Zealand T20 cricket (a curious juxtaposition of cultures!)

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